Jaisalmer Fort

When we arrived in Jaisalmer, it was still very early, and when Himmat told me that he couldn’t reach the place he had booked, alarm bells went off in my head.  We rode around in a tuktuk for bloody ages, lost, and I was treated to the experience of watching and listening to the tuktuk driver and Himmat discussing our predicament.  Every time I tried to say something, I was told to “wait”.  My blood was boiling, and when I tried to tell the two of them to stop when I spotted what looked like a really nice hotel, I got the hand up in the air routine and was ignored.  OH MY SOUL!!!!!  We eventually pulled up outside a place that the tuktuk driver had suggested.  I hated it on sight, and when we were ushered into our room it was the outside of enough.

I am not unreasonable.  I don’t expect anything too fancy, but if you offer a room with a TV, there are 2 things I expect…….Number 1 – the room must be clean, and number 2 – the TV must work.  Anyone think these expectations are unreasonable?    The TV looked like it had been on the ark, and the dust around it hadn’t been cleaned away………….ever.  Well, that was more than I could take.  I very calmly told Himmat that if he EVER told me to be quiet again, he better duck.  I made it clear that he was to listen to me, because contrary to what he or any other man may think, I actually knew quite a lot.  I also said that if our train seats were not confirmed the next time we travelled, I would not get on the train, and I demanded coffee.  I received an apology, refused to pack up and move, and got a really good cup of coffee.  I was not yet consoled…….

After “settling in” we ventured out and walked through the streets, ending up at the Fort.  We went to a really good restaurant for breakfast, I bought a hat, and then we wondered around.  After the beautiful Forts in Jodhpur and Jaipur, the Fort in Jaisalmer was a disappointment.  It is so crowded with vendors and restaurants that it is difficult to get a feel for the place, or perhaps that’s what it was like way back when.  I saw a really scrawny street dog that looked terrified, eating some biscuits, and a man started his motor bike right next to him.  The poor dog got such a fright, and I started walking toward the man with what must have been a really imposing look on my face, and body language that said “now you’re going to get it”.  He apologised to me, and assured me that he wasn’t hurting the dog.  Hilarious now, but not so much then.

We went back to the restaurant and just sat……wonderful.  Later on, we made our way slowly to what I think is called the Gadisar Lake.  This was so amazing, and my mood lifted – I was near water.  We got into a 2 seater pedal boat, and lazily made our way around the lake.  By the time our ride was over, it was dusk, and Himmat had arranged to meet a friend of his.  I can’t remember his name, but I think Himmat was relieved that he had a buffer lol.  We ended off the day by going to a restaurant for a really good supper, and entertainment.

With Himmat

Day 2 in Jaisalmer dawned, after trying in vain to get a good night’s sleep.  The ceiling fan made a racket (of course), and to be honest, I was worried that it would fall on my head during the night.  No mirror in the room, at all!!!!  I mean, seriously?!  On top of that, we had to be out by 9am.  Bloody awful place, and I really don’t want to remember the name.  We were fetched by Himmat’s friend, and taken fairly far out of town to a ghost town called Kuldhara.  I loved it, which probably says a lot about me. We were no sooner there than I wondered off on my own.  The story is that 200 years ago the Paliwal Brahmins were harassed by the local Samant or the ruler, and were paying huge amounts of money in the form of taxes to him.  One day, the ruler apparently set his eyes on one of the girls in the community, possibly the chief’s daughter.  The Paliwals were given no choice in the matter, and they had just a day to accept his proposal.  In desperation, the entire community left their homes behind, cursing the king and the town, and escaped in the dead of night.  I have no idea if this is true, and I doubt if anyone does.  The legend has created a tourist opportunity, and I really enjoyed my visit.

I was eventually found, and it was time to make our way to the dunes.  All my friends had insisted that I visit and see the dunes.  Well, they were right.  I have always thought that the desert would be a dead bore, but wow, was I wrong.  We made our way onto the dunes, and before I knew it, I was riding a Camel!!  I deftly avoided falling on my face, and had a really good time.  I have no doubt that Himmat and his friend thought I was a bit weird, because I couldn’t wait to take my shoes off and dig my toes into the cool sand.  We stayed on the dunes until the sun set, and what a sun set!! 

After soaking up the sunset, we got back in the car and made our way to a tent resort.  It’s so cool.  Instead of cabins, big white tents are set up in two rows, with an area in the middle which includes a cemented entertainment area.  It reminded me of the medieval theatres, with a horse shoe shaped grand stand around the “stage”.  The entrance to the resort is also a solid brick structure, with a reception area and I received a fantastic welcome by a lovely traditionally dressed girl. 

It gets pretty cold at night in the desert, so we were huddled under a blanket while we smoked hubbly, and drank beer.  I was feeling really relaxed, and enjoying myself.  There was a show with traditional dancing, and some really amazing, dangerous acts.  The main dancer was a man in a traditional (woman’s) outfit, and I’m sure that most Indian women wouldn’t be able to carry some of the heavy props he did.  At the end of the show, the crowd was invited to dance with the professionals.

We then made our way to the restaurant for supper.  It was a delicious buffet, and I really pigged out on the desserts.  Himmat had told me earlier that our seats on the train had been confirmed, so I was a happy chappy.

After a relaxing and delicious supper, it was time to make our way to the station.  I realised about here, that if it hadn’t been for this holiday, I would have been in a bad way emotionally, and I will be forever grateful for my Indian family, who welcome me no matter what.