One of my dancing partners on the way to Jodhpur

I was not a happy person on Wednesday 23 March when I woke up and realised that not only did I have to leave the wonderful people of Bijapur, but my trip was almost at an end.  How on earth was it possible that I had been travelling for 16 days?  I tried to think of each individual day and what I had done so far, but failed dismally.  I suppose this is what is referred to as a whirlwind tour……

Before I go any further, I should add that Himmat’s mom and I have become sisters.  I don’t know if you can call it a ceremony, but she declared it so and so it is.  In my humble opinion, there is no greater compliment than receiving that kind of love and affection and knowing that you are wanted for no other reason than because you are you.  I will be forever thankful and consider myself one of the luckiest people alive for having experienced this.

Back to the awful reality of getting ready to leave……we had a wonderful breakfast and when the final bit of packing was done I said my goodbyes, and Himmat and I drove to the bus station…..yes, it was time for a bus ride.

We piled into the bus and we were off to Jodhpur.  It was a wonderful surprise to see one of the wedding dancers (one of the two that I had danced with) on the bus across the aisle from us.  The trip was uneventful until we got to a stop and someone who was very much into the Holi spirit threw a water bomb through the window.  I was lucky enough not to be in the firing line, but the conductor and a young man who had a new shirt on got pink water all over them.  I have to say it was really funny and put me in the mood for Holi festival.  I was to meet Vishal, my excellent tour guide and friend from my first trip to India, and experience Holi festival with him and his family.  I had been told that he had a surprise for me, so couldn’t wait to find out what it was.

It took what seemed like a lifetime to get booked into our guest house, and Vishal said he was on his way to meet us.  Because of Holi festival, the roads were busier than usual so as you can imagine it was chaos, especially in the Old City where we were staying.  Vishal eventually arrived and it was so good to see him.  He is now a married man and the big surprise that he had for me is that he is also the proud father of a baby boy……fantastic news.  Vishal has also invested in a car which he wasn’t yet confident to drive too much so he was chauffeured by his friend or brother – best way to travel really.

The bonfire in Vishal's neighbourhood

We got to Vishal’s house and a bonfire had been made in a clearing.  Holika Dahan is an extremely popular tradition and is celebrated all across the country and it symbolises the victory of good over evil. People sing and dance around the fire.  There are numerous legends associated with this ancient tradition and it is difficult to pin-point when the tradition started. Days before the festival people start gathering wood and combustible materials for the lighting of the bonfire in community centres, near temples and other open spaces.

The following is an excerpt from an online site I found:

“The history of the bonfire dates back millennia, when the demon king Hiranyakashipu ruled and terrorized the universe and considered God, Vishnu, and His devotees to be his arch enemy.  When the demon saw that his own son, Prahlada, had become a devotee of Vishnu, he became enraged and decided to kill Prahlada.  But Lord Vishnu protected Prahlada during all the assassination attempts.  In despair, Hiranyakashipu ordered his sister, Holika, who had been blessed with immunity from fire, to take Prahlada into fire and burn him to death.  She complied, but to the dismay of the demon, Prahlada came out of the fire, unscathed, being protected by Lord Vishnu, whereas Holika was reduced to ashes. Why? Because she had been given that blessing by Brahma with the condition that it shouldn’t be used to cause harm to others.  This burning of Holika is commemorated by the bonfire and by the name ‘Holi’.  The next day people play Holi, the popular festival of colours.”

Vishal, in true tradition, walked around the fire 7 times.  He also told me that if the fire burns straight up it is good.

We spent the remainder of the evening chatting and eating, naturally.  Once again I was treated to excellent food and sweets to die for.

I thought that Holi was celebrated on one day and had no idea that the bonfire is lit on the first day and that the actual “playing Holi” is done the following day (we live and learn).  I had promised Kiddo that I would return to his village on 24^th, not realising that I would be missing out on the part of the festival I really wanted to experience.  This also didn’t go down well with Vishal.  What we finally decided was that I would play with them in the morning and then go to Artiya later on the following day.  Life is full of compromises isn’t it…..?

Vishal and his brother and sister :)

As arranged, I was up bright and early on 24^th, had breakfast in the rooftop restaurant and then left Himmat at the Guest House to go out and about with Vishal.  I was so happy when he fetched me on his motor bike – YAY…..I was going to travel around Jodhpur in my favourite way.  I got onto the bike behind Vishal, rested my cheek against his back and off we went – this was the life and I was happy.

As we rode through the streets of the old city we were hit by flying paint bombs – this was what I had been dying to experience and it was great fun.  We stopped off at a temple and went inside.  As always, I followed Vishal’s lead as I really don’t know the etiquette.  After our short stop, we went to Vishal’s home where we continued to play with paint, and then water was added to the mix.  As I’m typing I am giggling because it was so much fun making such a mess.  And what a mess it was – the pictures will give you a good idea.

We continued to play until, once again, it was time to take my leave.  Himmat had arrived with Vikram to fetch me.  I would have loved to spend more time with Vishal and ride around my Jodhpur like we did 2 years prior but it was not meant to be – next time.

Needless to say I was soaking wet and every colour of the rainbow.  Vikram probably died inside when he saw me – being very proud of his car that is as neat and clean as a pin.  I rummaged around in my suitcase and found something else to wear and after changing, said my sad farewells and was off again.

I was a sight and a half when I arrived in Artiya.  No one in the village had played Holi and Vikram and Himmat were colour-free.

It was crazy seeing the village and Kiddo’s home without hundreds of people.  I also noticed that even though I hadn’t been gone for that long the weather was substantially hotter than when I left.  A nap was in order and that is precisely what I did.  When I woke, it was suggested to me that I might like a shower.  It didn’t matter how much I scrubbed, the colours remained and for quite some time after my return to SA my hair was a lovely pink.

View from the Temple

Next on the agenda was a trip with the married couple (Arjun and Rinku) to a temple.  This trip was to prove challenging to say the least because the temple was situated really high up on a hilltop.  Loads of us had piled into various cars and when we arrived, the climb up the stairs started……OH MY WORD!!!!! When I couldn’t breathe any longer and my legs were on fire I stopped and sat down…..to say that I thought a heart attack was on the cards would not be an exaggeration.  My chest was about to explode.  Not getting to the top was not an option however and with Tinu and Hello leading the pack, I was egged on like I have never been egged on before.  With the encouragement I got I could probably have run a marathon – it was the most wonderful thing.  What can I say…..I got to the top and my team of helpers cheered as I reached the top step….

Prayers were said and photographs taken and before long it was time to make our way back down – this was not a difficult task.  The light was fading and so we piled into the cars and made our way back to the village.

Party time

That night we sat outside Kiddo’s room on the roof and ate and drank and had great fun into the wee hours.

I slept in Kiddo’s room that night and this was the first time we had actually had any time to ourselves because of the craziness of the wedding and so many people being around.  I was so pleased that I had returned even if it was only for one day and night.

The morning brought the usual bustle in the village.  It was Friday and my last day before my long trip home began…..how depressing can you get….seriously.

This trip was not done with doling out surprises though.  In the late morning I was sitting chatting to Kiddo in his room when my Dancing Man and all the elders arrived, and a spur of the moment party ensued.  Whisky and Beer were opened and snacks produced.  Such great fun, and what a fantastic send-off.

On this day I also got to chat to Arjun for the first time.  This I was really happy about because I had been the special guest at his wedding and it seemed odd that, besides never having met him prior to the wedding, I didn’t get to meet him until after he and Rinku were married.

The party wound down and (OMG!!!!) it was time to get ready to leave AGAIN!  I had to make my way back to Jodhpur.  I would spend the night in Jodhpur and then on Saturday 26^th my trip home would start.  Unfortunately I didn’t have time to see Vishal and his family when I got back to Jodhpur.

To say that I was unhappy to be leaving India is the understatement of the century.  Being in India with my friends is food for my soul that I have not found anywhere else.  I feel so lucky to have found this passion and will be forever grateful to Sandeep Bhati for the friend request he sent all those years ago.

I missed out on seeing some of my friends again this time – so frustrating – but as soon as another opportunity presents itself, I will be back for another adventure in Incredible India.